Safaris and somewhat sore knees, Sigiriya Part 2!

So Jarrod, no doubt you’ve read my account of Day one in Sigiriya (climbing Pidurangala Rock followed by Minneriya Safari) and you’re wondering “hmmm, can the iconic site of Sigiriya can possibly top that?” Well read on! Thanks to the climb yesterday, I’ve woken up with quads that are protesting if I dare to attempt anything as ambitious as oh, sitting to use the toilet, and my calf muscles won’t cooperate with anything more than a step-to gait, so I’m kind of ambulating like a bridesmaid doing a wedding march. Excellent news then, that Lonely Planet has flagged “the ascent (to Sigiriya) involves steep climbs so if you’re not fit, it may be tough.” Terrific.

Compulsory picture of Sigiriya, Internet law says one must be included in any Sri Lanka blog

By way of background, the Sigiriya rock plateau is 200m high and was formed by the magma of a now extinct volcano.  (Admit it, you just re-read that sentence and enunciated the word Mag-ma like Dr Evil……Mag…..ma)

As far back as 3rd century BC, Sigiriya served as a Buddhist monastery, but in the 5th century King Kasyapa seized the throne (very Lannister of him), moved the royal residence here and developed the summit into a palace complex. Can you imagine how bloody annoying that would have been? It’s arduous enough visiting friends who don’t have easy street parking near their homes, let alone having to schlep up 40mins of stairs to get to a front door.

On the advice of my homestay hosts, I get to the site as early as possible to beat the heat, and maximise chances of avoiding the hornets! That’s right, there are hornet nests there. I’ve been told by some people that sometimes they’re more active later in the afternoon. And if this picture is anything to go by, some are as large as your torso… Holy crap.

Please God, let this picture not be to scale.

Fortunately the climb up Sigiriya is easier than expected. Yes, it’s arduous because there are lots of stairs and it’s hot, even early in the morning, but it’s stairs all the way = zero technical difficulty 🙂 and after yesterday, that’s very much appreciated!

Stairway to heaven

Spiralling out of control

Halfway up in a sheltered little gallery, there’s respite from the upward trudge, to admire a gorgeous series of frescoes. They’re thought to be depictions of either celestial nymphs, or King Kasyapa’s concubines. Photography is strictly forbidden here–flash or no flash and there are guards policing this. They’ll pounce if the hand near your camera or phone so much as twitches, so these images are courtesy of Google!

He loves me, he loves me not

The fresco that broke the 5th century equivalent of the internet

Just beyond the frescoes is a wall known as The Mirror Wall which sports graffiti dating as far back as the 6th century. Apparently some visitors to Sigiriya would scribe ardent dedications to the women depicted in the frescoes. That’s right, even before the advent of Facebook, odious men felt they had the God given right to write on the walls of women they’d never met.

Lovestruck creeps wall

I plod on, onwards and upwards, finally reaching the northern end of the Rock and the famous Lion’s Paws. You know what they say about monuments with big feet *wink wink.

Kick ass views when you get to the top. Why, what were you thinking?

My, what big feet you have!

Feeling as dainty as thumbelina next to this toenail

The final part of the ascent to the summit really has my legs threatening to throw in the towel, but fortunately I can motivate them somewhat by pointing out these amazing views…

Pretty silhouettey!

Conquered you yesterday, buddy!

Finally I reach the summit and it is… Breathtaking. Or maybe that’s just my lungs heaving for blessed oxygen. No, it is indeed completely spectacular. 1.6 hectares of terraces and building foundations against a backdrop of impossibly lush greenery. Incredible!

Mind. Blown

A little blustery = understatement of the year

Southside views

Made for panoramas!

I amble around the summit for a good hour, drinking in the scale of it and the beautiful views, but eventually the wind and blazing sun drive me back down the stairs. En route a German tourist kindly points out the hornets nests hanging on the side of the Rock and it takes every fibre of my being to continue my descent calmly and quietly and not initiate a hysterical stampede.

Stieg Larsson, why would ANY girl kick one of these?!?!

Back at base, I explore the surrounding water gardens for a little while. They’re one of the oldest landscape gardens in the world, with such an abundance many beautiful water features, they seem to have almost certainly been designed to torture 5th century ladies with poor pelvic floor control who really need the bathroom.

Wandering and Pond-ering

Pretty lilies

Alas I can’t stroll about the shady gardens indefinitely, because I have to be back at the home stay by midday. In a classic example of outstanding Sri Lankan hospitality, I’ve been invited to a neighbour’s Big Girl Party. When I initially decline and say that I don’t want to impose, it becomes clear that it’s less an invitation and more an insistence/order. I’m a bit confused by what the Big Girl Party is, exactly so I pepper my host with questions. Is it a birthday party? No. It’s not her birthday? No. Then what is exactly is the party about? He squirms uncomfortably. It’s because she’s a Big Girl. End of.

I’m subsequently informed by friends at home that it’s a huge party to…. celebrate a girl reaching puberty. Coming from a generation where we outright denied menstruating, even at an age where it’d frankly be an anatomical concern if you weren’t, the idea of throwing a big party for eighty of your nearest and dearest with buffet lunch, marquees and hired singers to announce it’s All Happening is astounding.

First Moon

I can’t resist asking some teenagers if there’s a similar party for boys. “Do guys have a Big Boy party?”  They collapse into giggles and tell me no. I guess the arrival of unpredictable erections and the need to douse oneself in Lynx body spray doesn’t warrant celebration? It’s a beautiful afternoon. I consume enough food and drink to last me my whole three weeks in Sri Lanka and they are genuinely disappointed when I can’t fit more in. Honestly, I stumble back to the home stay afterwards full as a bear ready to hibernate for winter. An amazing slice of life and sooooo much better than any buffet you would get in a hotel!

Next morning it’s time to bid farewell to the family. I’ve had an absolutely unforgettable time with my three nights here but as always I’ll throw it over to you, Jarrod. Staying in Sigiriya: Jarrod, Would you go there?

Home away from home